Showing posts with label layers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label layers. Show all posts

Monday, 22 October 2012

Ghosts of World War II

Cherbourg 1944

You may have seen my post a few weeks back where I talked about photography tricks that just didn't work if poorly applied.  If you didn't you can pop on over to it HERE.  One of the tricks I mentioned was using two images as layers and changing the opacity to create two pictures in one.

Photographer and historian Jo Teeuwisse uses this technique to create some amazing and poignant images. She calls her series 'Now and Then, the Ghosts of History'.  She was browsing in a flea market and came across a box of around 300 negatives from the Second World War.  She digitised the images and then set off to the locations to try to retake the photo from the same view point.  By using layers in Photoshop she added the original 1940's images to create ghostly troops walking through modern streets.  Since then she has searched the internet for more images and used then to create dozens of different series of images.






More of Jo's images can be seen on her Flickr site.  She has also included the original shots she used to make her compositions, useful in working out the techniques she uses.


The work is similar to that of photographer Sergey Larenkov, who has created several extensive series - the highlights of which are shown below.  The full series can be access from HERE.  I find the work of both photographers very inspiring and it has given me an idea to try something similar for my local town.  I may not be able to find pictures of troops parading through the streets but there must be some vintage images that I could combine in a similar manner.


Leningrad/St.Petersburg, 1941-2011. People's volunteer corps is going to the front.


Leningrad 1941 / St Petersburg 2012: Victims of Shelling

Berlin 1945 / 2010

Paris 1940 Parade of the Occupiers on the Champs Elysees



Monday, 1 October 2012

Tutorial: A Severe Case of Flooding




My first ever blog post had a picture of me staring out of my window in wonder at a underwater world as shown above.  I've had a few people ask me how I managed to create the image and so I thought I'd share the technique with you.  I actually created the original image using Lightroom 4 and Photoshop CS5, two programs I'm very familiar with, but these are expensive and not everyone has access to them.  In order to give you all a chance to try out this tutorial I used the free, yes free, photo editing program called GIMP.  This stands for the GNU Image Manipulation Program although typing GIMP into your search engine may get some interesting results if you aren't careful :)  The program is about 70Mb in size and should run on most PCs.  I don't know if there is an Apple equivalent but I'm sure someone will comment and let me know.

Once you have the program open you need to open an image.  In the following tutorial I used one of me staring out the window.  If you would like a hi-res copy of my original image then contact me and I'll send you a copy so you can use it alongside this tutorial.

I have created my first ever Youtube tutorial to accompany this blogpost.  You can find it below, sorry about all the zooming in and out, I'll do better next time :)  Each of the stages is covered in more depth by this post.





This starting image is clearly lit by normal light and so the first thing that needs to change is the hue of the image.  So go into the menu bar and select Colors / Color Balance.


By changing the quantity of Reds, Green and Blues it is easy to give the image an underwater colour cast.  I used the settings of Red -20 and Blue +30 and did this for the Shadows, Midtones and Highlights (click the little buttons and slide the tabs for each one).  Make sure that 'Preserve Luminosity' is ticked or it will all go wrong.



The next thing to do is to add the aquarium picture.  I found this image by typing "Georgia aquarium" as it is one of the biggest aquariums in the world!  Filter the results to only show 'large' sized pictures and try and choose an image that has plenty of area uncluttered by human tourists so you have lots to work with. The image I used can be found HERE and all copyrights remain with the photographer.

Once you have found a suitable image and downloaded the full size version to your computer then you need to add it to your window picture and so you must create a New Layer by going to Layer / New Layer.  Choose 'Transparency' as the fill type.  Think of it as adding a sheet of tracing paper over the image so you can work between two pictures at once.



Go to File / Open and open the aquarium image.  It will open in a new window and may appear behind the working window.  In the aquarium picture go to Select / All and then Edit / Copy.  This will copy the image and have it ready in your clipboard.  You can now close the Aquarium picture, no need to save if it prompts.


Go back to your window picture and select Edit / Paste and you should end up with something like this.  As you can see GIMP has shrunk the image to fit inside the canvas of the original window picture.  If you look at the top left of the screen you will see a grey bar that says 'Opacity'  I've set the slider to 65% so that I can make out the original picture - this will make the next few steps much much easier!


The aquarium doesn't fill the space taken by the window frames and so I need to resize it.  By using the 'Move' and 'Scale' buttons highlighted below by the red circle I have stretched the image and positioned it so that none of the people are in the spaces occupied by the windows - my big nose covers the arm of the man taking a picture in the bottom left of the frame!  Note that when you are actually scaling the image the opacity will set to 100% so some guess work is involved.

I also found it easier to zoom in on the picture for more accuracy and this was done by clicking on the small % sign at the bottom of the page (just below the man).  Better still if you hold Ctrl and scroll the middle mouse wheel up/down you can zoom in and out really easily.  You will need to zoom in/out a lot in the later stages so get used to this control now.  If you want to move around the picture when you have zoomed in then just press and hold the spacebar.


I'm happy with the position of the fish and so want to make the layer 'editable'.  First of all you need to return the opacity to 100% as shown in the top right hand circle.  Now you need to stop the image being 'floating' and thus uneditable.  You need to 'anchor' the image (boy did this take me a while to realise!).   All that is required to do is click on the Anchor icon shown in the bottom right hand red circle below. 


Now the fun bit.  The aquarium image is sitting in it's own layer but even if we make it see-through it still goes beyond the edges of the window frames in the original picture.  What we need to do is 'rub out' all the bits that aren't necessary.  We could use the eraser tool but this is actually a very inefficient way of doing it.  If you use the eraser and make a mistake then the pixels are lost.  What we are going to do instead is create a Layer Mask.  Go to Layer / Mask / Add Layer Mask.  When the dialogue box opens select 'White - Full Opacity'.



Very little will appear to have changed but you are going to see something amazing in a moment.  Go back up to the Opacity slider and knock it down to about 60% so that you can see the window frames and the aquarium.  We are now going to get rid of the bulk of the spare pixels by masking them out.  Zoom in to 50% and use the spacebar to get the top left pane of the window into view.  Now you need to select the Path tool (shown in the small red circle in the picture below).  You might think that a rectangle selection would be better but it would be rare for the shot to be exactly straight so the pen is far mightier...

With the Path tool selected you should see a Tool Options panel open below all the icons (shown in the large red circle below).  The button marked 'Design' should be selected and you need to tick the 'Polygonal' box.  Now click on one of the corners of the window frame.  Make sure you click just slightly inside the frame and not in the 'garden' side.  Once you have clicked on all four corners click on 'Selection from Path' under the 'Polygonal' box you ticked earlier.  You should now have a box of 'marching ants'.  Now move over to the next window frame and holding down the Shift key press the left mouse button once.  This will add your new clicks to the current selection.  Let go of Shift and click around the corners of the frame just like you did the first time.  Once finished press 'Selection from Path' again and you should get rewarded with another box of marching ants.  Do this around all seven window panes.  You have to guess where the bottom lefthand window finishes but you want to try and have straight lines - if you keep the left button pressed after you have clicked you can drag the line.


Once you have selected all the windows you can make some fine tune adjustments.  A bit of time spent at this stage will stop you pulling your hair out later.  Zoom in and check that none of the ants are marching in the green areas of the garden.  If they are then left click once on one of the corners you made and drag it carefully into the dark area of the frame.  Once your lines are all in the dark areas click again on 'Selection from Path' and the screen will update.  Now for some rubbing out :)

The only pixels you can rub out are those inside the boxes you have just drawn.  That is the opposite of what we need so we need to Invert the mask.  This will protect the aquarium pixels in the window.  Go to the menu and choose Select / Invert (or press Ctrl + I).  Nothing will look different but the next step will tell if you've done it right.

Select the Brush tool, shown in the left hand circle below.  In the tools panel that opens at the bottom pick a decent sized brush, I clicked about a third in on the Size bar and got a figure of 356 pixels.  Make sure you zoom out your picture (I chose 25%).  The brush should default to the colour black.  Where ever you apply black to the Layer Mask the aquarium picture will vanish.  You can wave the brush all over the place and, if you've done it correctly, none of the water inside the window frames will be effected - as shown below.  You may find it helps to increase the opacity so none of the blue escapes you.  In the red circle in the right of the screen shown below you should notice a black pattern forming as you draw.  This is a thumbnail of the Layer Mask you are creating. 

Remember that BLACK REVEALS the bottom layer and WHITE CONCEALS the bottom layer.


Once you have finished, and it should only take a few seconds, you should have a picture and Layer Mask icon that looks like the one below (although I've added a blown up version so you can see better).  It doesn't look too bad at this stage.  The top four windows are complete.  If you notice any green bits sticking out in these windows you need to fix these in the final clear up stages later.  

I deliberately left clutter on the window sill so that it can be used to create a feeling of depth in the image.  We are going to mask out the candles, tankard, and my face so that it looks like the aquarium is behind them.


Time to get rid of the marching ants, go to 'Select / None' in the menu.  Zoom in on the window with the candle and Pritt stick.  Chose a very small brush size, I went for 23 pixels, and with a black brush carefully 'colour in' the detail of the candle back in again.  If you accidently reveal too much of the bottom layer ie get some of the green garden showing like a halo around the objects then you need to change to a white brush to conceal the layer.  This is why you went to the effort of making a mask and not just used the eraser tool.  You can quickly flip the white/black colours by clicking the small arrow next to the colour blocks (shown in the middle circle below).  

In the image below I've already done the candle and have started on the Pritt stick.  As you get closer to the edge of the object you may want to decrease the brush size - this can be done quickly by using the [ key and ] makes it bigger again. Remember if you make a mistake there is no need to worry, change your brush colour back to white and the water pixels can be painted back in.  


When you get to the scissors take extra care with the handle.  By only painting back the red bits you can leave the aquarium showing in middle, the same applies to the punched holes in the top of the pen refill boxes that are sticking out of the tankard.  Take care when painting between the pencils.  Zooming right in and using a small brush, as shown below makes this relatively simple.



Now for an extra touch.  When you get to my face you'll notice I'm wearing glasses.  Wouldn't it be amazing if you could see the aquarium through the glasses!  Its actually pretty simple.  All you need to colour in is the arm of the glasses and the darker curve of the edge of the lens to make a sort of T shape.  I zoomed right in to get the detail right and used a tiny brush to draw to a point as shown below.


Nearly done.  Once you've finished the tankards, candle, cigar box and my face you should zoom out and admire your handy work.  You've been working at an extreme magnification and it helps to stop and step back every now and then to check the overall effect is working.  You should have something that looks like this, reasonably neat edges around the windows and the aquarium visible in the cardboard holes, scissor handle and through my glasses.


Now its time for your final checks.  Zoom in and inspect around the edges of each window frame.  Even with careful selecting with the pen tool you may have missed a few pixels, as I have shown below, and have a thin strip of grass showing through.  Using the brush on a very small setting you can colour in the missing bits of aquarium - remember that you will have to use a black brush to reveal the window layer, a white one to conceal it.  If you have overrun too much into the window you can use the Pencil tool to 'draw' straight lines to tidy up the edges.  With a small brush left click once at your starting point.  Press and hold the Shift key and you get a moveable line that you can drag along to the required position.


Once you've finished all of your editing you must remember to turn the aquarium layer opacity back up to 100%


With the editing complete you need to make the image ready for saving.  In order for GIMP to remember the layers and masks you need to click on File / Save and it will ask you for a filename.  GIMP uses the .xcf format.  If you want to be able to share your images or save it as a smaller file then you want to convert it to a JPEG.  The .xcf for my picture was 34Mb in size but the .jpg got it down to 1.4mb (you can go smaller by reducing the quality further).  

The conversion option is hidden away (it took me a few internet searches for the answer) but want you need to do is click on File / Export from the main menu.  You get a screen similar to the one shown below.  If you click on the small + icon near 'Select File Type', shown in the small red circle, you get all the compatible formats that GIMP can work with.  Scroll down until you see JPEG Image as shown.  Type in your filename in the top box and hit 'Export'.  And relax.  



Congratulations on making it to the end of the post!  If you are a novice to photo editing and you've followed along with me then you've learnt an amazing amount of techniques:

Open an image adjusting the colour balance
Adding a layer
Importing an image into a layer
Scaling and Moving an Image Layer
Changing Opacity and Anchoring 
Creating a Layer Mask
Making a selection using the pen tool
Inverting a Selection
Using the brush tool in black or white mode to add /subtract to the mask
Zooming in an fine tuning 
Exporting your image

The techniques you have learnt will stand you in good stead for future projects.  Advanced use of these skills mean you can  produce images like this one, taken one quiet afternoon at work and created in about an hour in Photoshop from 12 different shots :)















Monday, 3 September 2012

You Are Not A Photographer!

I discovered the most amazing website whilst exploring the wondrous internet.  The 'you are not a photographer' site looks through countless facebook pages and looks for dubious images from 'professional' photographers.  Digital cameras are getting cheaper and more powerful and it's easily within the grasp of many to get hold of kit that looks impressive.  The problem is that being a photographer is not just having a big camera and Photoshop.  This is not the place to argue what actually makes a good photographer, but an understanding of composition and light has got to be on anyone's list.  Photoshop and Photoshop Elements are amazing pieces of software but it takes more skill to apply the tool subtly than to drag out every trick in the box.  All clearly things that some of these 'professionals' have not yet grasped.

When you look at the photos in this post, and hopefully go on to the 'you are not a photographer' website I hope you'll find a few images that make you laugh.  Remember though that these individuals are charging for their service and have the audacity to call themselves professional. 

All of the images are the copyright of their respective photographer, thank goodness!  Website link to the 'you are not a photographer' site at the bottom of this post.

Here are some of my favourites - your comments are more than welcome!



Semi-transparent layers are fab, everyone loves then and when used properly and with some thought can literally add depth to a photo.  Used badly though and it goes horribly wrong.  So to start us off at number 10: this poor baby that hopefully didn't actually have a deformity that turned it's head into a giant foot.  With an ill-fitting toe ring!


At number 9: there are times when using 'spot colour' is perfect.  Those times were in the late 1990s and that fad should have passed a long time ago.  Applied with the gentle touch of a bear swiping a bee's nest from its honey soaked face this image is just plain bad.




Number 8: for all those people that like crazy filters and plug-ins.  Bubbles are great but sometimes a photographer can just get carried away.  Would you pay for this shot if you were the couple in the image?




Number 7: solarisaton.  This is a process that originated in the very early days of photography and is like a negative print that can be done in colour.  This possibly cute kid has been turned into an evil zombie baby with just a few clicks of a mouse.  What mother couldn't possibly want a massive print of this on their living room wall.




Number 6: a sweet little kitten.  By controlling the depth of field a photographer can decide what is in focus and what is an attractive, non-distracting blur.  This professional photographer has been taking pictures of pets for over twenty years.  Just how bad must those early shots have been if this is the pinicle of his/her career!  I might be wrong thugh, maybe this was a shoot for a brush lovers website.





Number 5: the pointless portfolio shot.  When putting together a portfolio a real photographer realises that the whole thing will be judged by the weakest shot.  With that in mind what the hell was this 'professional' thinking when he included this.  More importantly what the heck is going on under that towel?







In at number 4: the professional portrait shoot.  Every aspiring model wants a few headshots in her books so she can show potential clients.  It is important that these images reflect the actual model the client will be booking and so they should look as natural as possible.  The photographer obviously knows that it's all about the eyes but has clearly forgotten one of the golden rules: Less is More!





At 3: blown highlights.  They are often a problem for photographers, but modern software can usually take these overly bright spots and work miracles to bring back some of that precious lost detail.  At the other end of the scale are those photographers who are trying to create a perfect blank background to allow their subjects to stand out.  When it goes wrong the effect is anything but special. What makes this image for me is the photographer's defence to the comment about the brightness...






Almost done.  At number 2: a perfect excuse for me to share an important photography tip.  When I'm shooting I don't check the centre of the frame first, I check the four corners to force my eye to look at the whole picture.  This simple trick means that you can spot anything distracting in the background that is easily missed if you are focusing on the subject first.  The follow image shows what happens if you don't use this technique and then post the image in your 'pro-photographer' facebook page.








And finally my favourite shot from the website.  Baby photos are snapshots of cherished moments when your little one is changing rapidly from week to week.  Great baby photos are actually very tricky to capture properly but done properly will be looked at by their parents for years to come.

I'm sure the client asked for a cute shot of their baby dressed in Christmas clothes for a lovely card for grandma.

What they got was a shot of a dead baby that had just been dropped on the floor.  More disturbing is that someone actually clicked 'like'!










The link for the full website is HERE.  Many of the older pictures are no longer available as photographers remove them from their sites, so enjoy them while you can!